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 Post subject: 24 Hour Lighting
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2016 2:39 pm
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Looking for input and or possibly a good light bar, headlight or helmet lighting. That someone might have sitting in a garage not using. Figured I'd check here before I went and spent 500 bucks on new ligthing.


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 Post subject: Re: 24 Hour Lighting
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 8:34 pm 
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KTM GURU
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Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2005 8:48 pm
Posts: 15635
Location: Cedartown
LED's are cheap these days and don't require a stator rewind on a lot of bikes, KTM's in particular. You just have to be a little creative in making mounts. Might be an option for you rather than buying motorcycle specific stuff for $500. Besides putting LED lights on 24 hour bikes, I put a front LED light bar and two LED side flood lights on my Kubota track loader to be able to work some night hours, less than $100 for all three lights, and they are super bright.

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Paul Wright
http://www.KTMWorld.com
http://www.HighlandParkResort.com

A fine is a tax for doing wrong. A tax is a fine for doing well.


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 Post subject: Re: 24 Hour Lighting
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2004 6:09 pm
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Go with both a helmet light and light on the bike, powered by two different sources.
Once you have your set-up do a test at night- If you say to yourself -
"I think I can get by with this set-up" = Don't even think about it.
"This is pretty bright"= Nope still not close.
"Wow!. "This is really bight"= Still not there
"I'm pretty sure I can be spotted from outer space= Just about right.

The name of the game is have a light setup that is as bright or brighter than anyone else. My first year I tested at night, by myself and I could see great. During the actual race it was an entirely different story. Pit lights, the bright DOT light at the half-way point and the other rider's lights give you the same effect of walking inside from the bight sun. It takes a few seconds for your eyes to adjust. Not a good thing to have happen as you are riding through the woods. If your lights are just as bright as the other lights you won't have an issue.

Also make sure you get lights with a good beam. The quality the light throws is just as important as brightness.

If I had to choose between brighter helmet light or brighter headlight, I'd go with brighter helmet light. If it's dusty you might consider mounting your light on top of your helmet rather than the more popular chin bar. The chin bar mount lights up the dust that is right in front of your face, causing some serious vision issues.

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Cycle Gear with three metro Atlanta locations.
KTM WORLD
HIGHLAND PARK


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 Post subject: Re: 24 Hour Lighting
PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 11:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 10:59 pm
Posts: 547
Location: Frisco, TX/Atlanta, GA
brant sand wrote:
Go with both a helmet light and light on the bike, powered by two different sources.
Once you have your set-up do a test at night- If you say to yourself -
"I think I can get by with this set-up" = Don't even think about it.
"This is pretty bright"= Nope still not close.
"Wow!. "This is really bight"= Still not there
"I'm pretty sure I can be spotted from outer space= Just about right.

The name of the game is have a light setup that is as bright or brighter than anyone else. My first year I tested at night, by myself and I could see great. During the actual race it was an entirely different story. Pit lights, the bright DOT light at the half-way point and the other rider's lights give you the same effect of walking inside from the bight sun. It takes a few seconds for your eyes to adjust. Not a good thing to have happen as you are riding through the woods. If your lights are just as bright as the other lights you won't have an issue.

Also make sure you get lights with a good beam. The quality the light throws is just as important as brightness.

If I had to choose between brighter helmet light or brighter headlight, I'd go with brighter helmet light. If it's dusty you might consider mounting your light on top of your helmet rather than the more popular chin bar. The chin bar mount lights up the dust that is right in front of your face, causing some serious vision issues.


I know this is a Want-To-Buy thread, but thought I would pile on with some experience about what to look for in racing lights. I agree with everything Brant says, with the minor exception that my personal preference is to have the brighter lights on the bike instead of the helmet. This is admittedly more from a desert riding perspective than the enduro trails of the PM24.

In my experience the helmet light is almost exactly aligned with the sightline of your eyes. Once everything is covered with dust you cannot see the whoops, ruts, or rocks since there are no shadows from the perspective of your eyes (a bit hard to explain if you haven't experienced it). Also, if the air is very dusty you may find that you need to turn off your helmet light on occasion to even see through the dust. So my choice is a very bright helmet light that follows your head movements and allows you to see around turns and past trees, and even brighter lights on the bike to give you some shadows and the ability to see contours when it is dusty.

And, to reinforce the comment about separate power sources, I would recommend having a battery source for the helmet light on your person rather than on the bike. That way if you should become disconnected from your bike you still have the bright helmet light to enable you to see and to be seen by other racers. Plus, you don't want to be in darkness if your bike stalls or has an electrical fault.

Good luck with the lights and the race!

_________________
Cross-country VFR rider and dualsport explorer
( and still a slowpoke enduro wannabe )


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 Post subject: Re: 24 Hour Lighting
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 4:35 am 
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KTM GURU
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Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2005 8:48 pm
Posts: 15635
Location: Cedartown
brant sand wrote:
"I'm pretty sure I can be spotted from outer space= Just about right.


Funny, people say my track loader I put the lighting on looks like a spacecraft landing at night. Ridiculously bright lights, 266 watts total. Brant, you made a good point about the beam quality. Bright floods are fine whipping between trees, but once you have a reasonably long straight, a concentrated spot beam is needed to see far enough to really get in the gas and row the gearbox when you get the chance. Gotta have at least one non flood beam that tosses good light down a straight.

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Paul Wright
http://www.KTMWorld.com
http://www.HighlandParkResort.com

A fine is a tax for doing wrong. A tax is a fine for doing well.


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